Fresh Looks: Choosing New RC Car Body Shells 1/16
Replacing out your rc car body shells 1/16 is definitely arguably the fastest method to turn a tired, scratched-up basher into something that looks like this just rolled from the hobby shop rack. Whether you're running a Traxxas E-Revo, a Losi Mini-T, or even one of these generic Chinese off-roaders that punch way above their fat class, the body is the soul of the device. It's the 1st thing people see, and honestly, it's the part that will takes the many abuse.
If you've been staying with the share "lid" that came in the box, you're missing out on half the enjoyable of the pastime. The 1/16 range is a bit of a special spot; it's little enough that systems are relatively inexpensive, but big more than enough that you can still get some incredible details. Let's dive into what makes these shells tick and the way to pick one that will actually fits.
Why a New Covering Changes Everything
Most people think about a new body simply because the old one particular is cracked or even the paint is usually flaking off. That's a valid reason, but a refreshing shell does more than just conceal the scars associated with a bad getting. It completely shifts the personality of the car. You may make a 1/16 monster truck and, using the right rc car body shells 1/16 , turn it into a sleek desert racer or an old style 70s muscle car.
There's furthermore the performance side of things. Stock bodies are usually designed for strength first, which indicates they may be a bit heavy or "parachutey" in the atmosphere. If you're racing, you might want something with a lower profile to cut through the wind. If you're bashing, you might want a shell with more distance around the wheels which means you don't obtain that annoying "tire rub" when the suspension compresses.
Choosing Your Material: Lexan vs. Difficult Plastic
When you're searching for rc car body shells 1/16 , you'll mainly see two forms of materials: Lexan (polycarbonate) and difficult plastic (ABS).
Lexan is the industry standard for the reason. It's obvious, flexible, and extremely tough. When you flip your car at 30 your, a Lexan body will flex plus pop back in shape. Most of these come clear, meaning you have to paint all of them yourself from the particular inside. This is definitely actually a huge as well as because the color is protected with the plastic itself. You are able to scrape the cover against a tangible wall, and while your invisalign aligner might obtain scratched, the color stays vibrant.
Hard plastic bodies, on the other hand, are all in regards to the scale looks. You'll see these more on crawlers or "shelf queens. " They have realistic door deals with, wipers, and grilles. The downside? They're brittle. If you're keen on big leaps and high-speed falls, a hard plastic shell will crack or shatter pretty rapidly. They're also heavier, which raises the particular center of the law of gravity and makes the particular car more most likely to tip more than in corners.
Getting the Ideal Fit for Your 1/16 Chassis
This is exactly where things can obtain a little difficult. Just because the body says "1/16" doesn't mean it'll bolt right on to your chassis. There are two main dimensions you need in order to keep an vision on: wheelbase and width .
The wheelbase is definitely the distance in the center of the particular front wheel to the center associated with the rear wheel. If you put a body with a 175mm wheelbase on a car meant for 190mm, the wheels won't sit in the particular wheel wells. It'll look goofy, and the tires will most likely chew through the particular plastic.
Width is the other big one particular. If the body is too slim, your tires can stand out like the wide-body kit—which appearance cool, but may lead to the particular body catching upon the ground throughout sharp turns. In case it's too broad, the car appears like it's wearing the older brother's clothing. Always measure your chassis before you hit "buy" upon those rc car body shells 1/16 you found online.
The Art of Painting and Preparation
In case you bought the clear Lexan layer, you've got a blank canvas. This is the part that intimidates a lot of people, but it's actually pretty therapeutic if you don't rush it. The biggest mistake people make? Not cleaning the shell. Throughout the manufacturing process, a "mold release" agent is utilized, and if you don't wash it away having a bit associated with dish soap plus warm water, your paint will remove in sheets.
Once it's dried out, you use masking tape (or liquid mask) to cover the windows and any areas you want to remain a different color. Here's the golden principle: usually paint from the inside . Plus always use paint specifically labeled for "polycarbonate" or "Lexan. " If you use regular equipment store spray paint, it won't relationship to the plastic. The first time the body flexes, the color will flake away like old dandruff.
Start with your darkest colors first and proceed to the lighter in weight ones. If you spray white over black, the whitened won't show up. If you apply black over white, you'll just obtain a dirty-looking gray. It requires a bit of planning, however the result of the fresh DIY color job is worth the effort.
Producing Your Shell Last Through the Bashes
Let's end up being real: we most crash. Even the greatest drivers have these days where the car spends more time on the roof than the wheels. If you would like your rc car body shells 1/16 to last longer than a week, you need to reinforce all of them.
A classic enthusiast trick is the "Shoe Goo and Drywall Tape" method. A person take fiberglass drywall tape, stick it to the inside associated with the body (especially around the body post holes and the corners), and then smear a level of Shoe Goo over it. Once this cures, it generates a flexible, rubbery "exoskeleton" which makes the body significantly more difficult to tear. This adds just a little weight, but it may triple the living of your shell.
Another tip will be to use "body washers" or actually just small items of foam under the body clips. This prevents the body posts through ripping through the particular plastic during a rollover. It's a cheap fix that will saves you from having to buy a new shell method too soon.
Mounting Styles: Clips vs. Magnets
Most 1/16 vehicles use the standard post-and-clip system. It's reliable, it's basic, and it works. But if you detest the look associated with plastic posts protruding of your hood, you might want to look straight into stealth mounts or magnets.
Magnetic mounts enable you to maintain the body totally smooth on the exterior. A person glue magnets to the inside of the shell plus mount the matching magnets on the chassis posts. It looks incredible, but there's a catch. In a high-speed crash, the body is much more likely to take flight off. For a 1/16 street car or a lighting drifter, magnets are awesome. For an off-road basher that's going to be performing backflips, you're probably best sticking with the clips.
Where to Find the good Shells
Because the 1/16 level is so popular, a person aren't limited to just the "official" replacement parts. Companies like Pro-Line, JConcepts, and various eBay sellers offer a huge range of rc car body shells 1/16 . You will discover everything from vintage VW Beetles in order to modern trophy trucks.
Don't become afraid to look at physiques meant for other brands, either. Many of the 1/16 stuff is cross-compatible with a little bit of cutting off. Just remember to help keep your scissors sharp—curved Lexan scissors are a lifesaver here—and take your time.
All in all, a new body shell is the particular best way in order to keep your hobby sense fresh. It gives you a task to work upon once the weather will be too bad to go outside, and there's nothing quite like the feeling of peeling off that protective outer movie following a fresh paint job. It's that instant "new car" smell, just upon a slightly smaller sized scale. So go ahead, pick out the new look, plus get back around.